Acne & Breakouts: Types, Causes + Routine
Whether you're dealing with blackheads, whiteheads, or deep cystic bumps, this hub will help you identify your acne type, understand what's causing it, and build a routine that actually works.
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Answer a few quick questions to get the most relevant guide.
What best describes your breakouts?
How long have you been dealing with acne?
What do you need most right now?
This sounds like hormonal acne
Deep, painful cysts on the lower face (chin, jawline) that flare with your cycle are classic signs of hormonal acne. Topical treatments alone often aren't enough — you may need to address the hormonal component.
Go to hormonal acne sectionThese are likely closed comedones
Small, skin-colored bumps that aren't inflamed are closed comedones (clogged pores under the surface). They respond well to retinoids and BHA but need consistent treatment.
Read: How to clear closed comedonesConsider seeing a dermatologist
Severe or scarring acne often needs prescription-strength treatment (tretinoin, antibiotics, or isotretinoin). A derm can assess your specific situation and prevent permanent scarring.
When to see a dermAll Guides & Resources
Start with these today to build your acne-clearing routine.
Adapalene: how to start
The gold standard retinoid for acne — how to begin without irritation.
BHA 2%: how to use (without irritation)
Salicylic acid basics for unclogging pores and preventing breakouts.
Closed comedones: how to clear
Those stubborn skin-colored bumps that won't budge — finally cleared.
Sebaceous filaments vs blackheads
Learn the difference — and why you shouldn't try to extract them.
Why pore strips & extraction tools backfire
The popular "fixes" that actually make pores worse long-term.
Hormonal Acne (PCOS, Jawline, Cyclical)
Deep, painful cysts on the lower face that flare with your cycle are classic hormonal acne. Topical treatments alone often aren't enough — you may need to address the hormonal component with a dermatologist.
Hormonal acne signs
How to tell if your acne is hormone-driven vs regular acne.
Jawline & chin acne: why?
Why hormonal acne targets the lower face specifically.
PCOS acne: topicals vs meds
When skincare alone isn't enough and what to discuss with your doctor.
Spironolactone for acne
What to ask your derm about this anti-androgen medication.
Birth control & acne
Which pills help, which make it worse, and the pros/cons.
Hormonal acne routine
A gentle routine for sensitive, hormone-affected skin.
Acne cluster (shipping next)
More deep-dive guides coming soon.
Benzoyl peroxide: how to start
Kill acne bacteria without over-drying your skin.
Purging vs breakout
How to tell if your retinoid is working or making things worse.
Salicylic acid vs benzoyl peroxide
Which one is right for your acne type.
Starter routine
A simple, effective routine for acne-prone skin.
AM routine
- Gentle cleanser — removes overnight oil without stripping (CeraVe, La Roche-Posay)
- Optional: BHA or niacinamide — if skin tolerates, use one active
- Lightweight moisturizer — even oily skin needs hydration
- Sunscreen SPF 30+ — essential, especially if using retinoids
PM routine
- Double cleanse — oil cleanser first if wearing SPF, then gentle cleanser
- Treatment — adapalene (2-3x/week to start) OR benzoyl peroxide spot treatment
- Moisturizer — buffer irritation, support barrier
Key principle: Start slow. Add one new active at a time, wait 2 weeks before adding another. If you're irritated, scale back — a simple routine that you can stick to beats an aggressive one that damages your barrier.
Ingredient cheat sheet
What helps acne, what to avoid, and who should be cautious.
✓ Proven acne-fighters
Retinoids (adapalene, tretinoin), benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid (BHA), azelaic acid, niacinamide. These have the most evidence for clearing and preventing acne.
⚠ Use with caution
Physical scrubs — can spread bacteria and irritate. Too many actives at once — leads to irritation. Alcohol-heavy products — dry without treating cause.
✗ Common triggers
Heavy oils (coconut, olive) can clog pores. Pore-clogging makeup — look for "non-comedogenic". Over-washing — dries skin, triggers more oil.
What not to do
Common mistakes that keep acne around longer than it should.
Don't pick or pop
Satisfying in the moment, but spreads bacteria, causes scarring, and prolongs healing.
Don't skip moisturizer
"Drying out" acne doesn't work — dehydrated skin produces more oil and heals slower.
Don't use everything at once
Layering BP + retinoid + AHA + BHA = irritation loop. Pick one or two actives max.
When to see a derm
Some acne needs prescription-strength treatment — here's when to escalate.
Cystic or nodular acne
Deep, painful bumps that don't come to a head often need oral medication or cortisone injections.
Scarring is happening
If you're getting pitted scars or dark marks, aggressive early treatment prevents permanent damage.
No improvement after 12 weeks
OTC products should show results by 8-12 weeks. If not, you may need tretinoin, antibiotics, or spironolactone.
Common questions
Quick answers to frequent acne questions.
What causes acne?
Acne happens when pores get clogged with dead skin cells and oil (sebum), creating an environment where C. acnes bacteria thrive. Hormones, stress, and genetics affect how much oil your skin produces and how quickly dead cells shed — that's why acne is so individual.
How do I know if my acne is hormonal?
Hormonal acne typically: appears on the lower face (chin, jawline), flares around your period, presents as deep cysts rather than surface pimples, and doesn't respond well to topical-only treatment. PCOS is a common cause in women with persistent hormonal acne.
Should I use benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid?
Benzoyl peroxide kills acne-causing bacteria and is best for inflammatory acne (red, pus-filled pimples). Salicylic acid (BHA) dissolves the "glue" holding dead skin in pores and is better for blackheads and closed comedones. Many routines use both at different times of day.
How long does it take for acne treatment to work?
Most acne treatments need 8-12 weeks to show significant results. Retinoids often cause initial purging (temporary worsening) in weeks 2-6 before improvement. Patience is key — switching products too quickly prevents anything from working.
Is purging normal when starting retinoids?
Yes — purging is your skin pushing out existing clogs faster. It typically peaks around weeks 2-6 and should improve by week 12. If you're getting breakouts in new areas or irritation (burning, flaking), that's not purging — reduce frequency or see a derm.
Can diet affect acne?
Evidence is mixed, but some studies link high-glycemic foods (sugar, white bread) and dairy (especially skim milk) to acne in some people. Keeping a food diary can help you identify personal triggers — but don't rely on diet alone; topicals are still the foundation.
When should I see a dermatologist?
See a derm if: you have cystic/nodular acne, scarring is happening, no improvement after 12 weeks of OTC treatment, or you suspect hormonal acne. Prescription-strength options (tretinoin, antibiotics, spironolactone, isotretinoin) work much faster than OTC products.
Can I wear makeup with acne?
Yes — just choose non-comedogenic products and remove makeup thoroughly before bed (double cleansing helps). Mineral makeup is often better tolerated. The bigger risk is picking at skin while applying/removing makeup.
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Get a routine that fits your skin
Not sure where to start? A skin scan can identify your specific acne type and recommend products that won't irritate your skin.