Adapalene (sold OTC as Differin) is one of the most effective treatments for closed comedones, texture, and acne prevention. But starting it comes with questions: What’s the purge? Is my skin supposed to peel? Why am I breaking out more?
This guide covers everything you need to start adapalene correctly—and know when something’s actually wrong.
This is part of our complete guide to Skin Texture & Visible Pores.
What Adapalene Is (and What It Does)
Adapalene is a third-generation retinoid—a vitamin A derivative that:
- Normalizes skin cell turnover: Cells shed properly instead of clumping and clogging pores
- Prevents new comedones: Stops blackheads and closed comedones from forming
- Reduces inflammation: Has anti-inflammatory properties other retinoids lack
- Improves texture over time: Smooths skin after consistent use
It’s available OTC at 0.1% strength. Prescription versions go higher (0.3%).
Purge vs. Irritation: How to Tell the Difference
This is the #1 concern when starting adapalene. Here’s how to distinguish normal adjustment from a problem.
The Purge (Expected)
What it is: Adapalene speeds up cell turnover, pushing existing clogs to the surface faster. Bumps that were forming deep in your skin appear as breakouts sooner than they would have naturally.
Characteristics:
- Happens in areas where you typically break out
- Breakouts are whiteheads or comedones, not new types of acne
- Skin isn’t excessively red, raw, or painful
- Worse around weeks 2–6, then improves
- New breakouts slow down after 8+ weeks
What to do: Keep going. This is temporary. The breakouts would have happened anyway—you’re just seeing them all at once.
Irritation/Dermatitis (Problem)
What it is: Your skin barrier is damaged, either from overuse, not buffering, or sensitivity.
Characteristics:
- Redness, burning, stinging with all products
- Excessive peeling and flaking (not mild, but sheets of skin)
- Occurs everywhere, not just where you break out
- Skin looks shiny-tight, not healthy-dewy
- Getting worse after 3–4 weeks instead of stabilizing
What to do: Pause adapalene. Do a barrier reset for 7–14 days. Restart at lower frequency with buffer.
The Pea-Size Rule
One pea-sized amount for your entire face. That’s it.
Why Less Is More
- More product doesn’t mean faster results
- Excess just increases irritation without added benefit
- Retinoids work by signaling skin cells, not by “coating” the skin
Where NOT to Apply
- Eye area: Too thin and sensitive. Stop at the orbital bone.
- Corners of the mouth: High irritation risk, prone to cracking.
- Corners of the nose: Thin, sensitive, often cracks first.
- Neck: More sensitive than face. If treating neck, use even less and buffer.
How to Buffer (The Sandwich Method)
Buffering means applying moisturizer before adapalene to reduce irritation while still getting benefits.
Full Buffer (Beginners)
- Cleanse
- Apply moisturizer, wait 10–15 minutes
- Apply pea-sized adapalene
- Optional: Light additional moisturizer on top
Partial Buffer (After Tolerance Builds)
- Cleanse
- Apply adapalene to dry skin
- Wait 10 minutes
- Apply moisturizer
No Buffer (Full Tolerance)
- Cleanse
- Apply adapalene on dry skin
- Wait, then moisturizer
Start with full buffer. You can always reduce it as you build tolerance.
The Schedule: How to Ramp Up
Weeks 1–2: Every Other Night + Buffer
Give your skin adjustment time. Apply Monday, Wednesday, Friday (or similar).
Weeks 3–4: Every Night (If Tolerated) + Buffer
If no severe irritation, move to nightly use. Still buffer.
Weeks 5–8: The Adjustment
- Continue nightly
- Reduce buffering if skin seems ready
- Expect some purging during this phase
Week 9+: Maintenance
- Nightly use becomes routine
- Minimal to no buffer needed
- Purging should stop
- Long-term texture improvement visible
When to Pause Adapalene
Stop temporarily if you experience:
- Severe stinging or burning with every product
- Cracking or bleeding skin
- Large patches of peeling (not fine flakiness)
- Persistent redness that doesn’t improve
- Skin feeling worse after 6+ weeks without any improvement
Pause for: 7–14 days with a simple routine (cleanser/moisturizer/sunscreen only)
Restart at: 2x/week with full buffer, then build up again more slowly
Common Mistakes
1. Using Too Much
Pea-size only. Repeat it in your head.
2. Not Waiting for Skin to Dry
Applying to damp skin increases irritation. Pat dry after cleansing, wait a minute.
3. Skipping Sunscreen
Retinoids increase sun sensitivity. Failing to wear SPF daily will worsen hyperpigmentation and irritation.
4. Mixing with Other Actives Early On
No BHA, AHA, or vitamin C on adapalene nights at first. Add those back slowly after tolerance builds.
5. Giving Up Too Early
8–12 weeks minimum. If you stop at week 4 during the purge, you’ve endured the worst without seeing the benefit.
FAQ
Does adapalene work for anti-aging too?
Yes, though tretinoin is more studied for fine lines. Adapalene improves texture and can help with mild photodamage over time.
Can I use adapalene with closed comedones AND acne?
Perfect use case. Adapalene treats both. See: Closed Comedones: The 8-Week Plan
Is adapalene or tretinoin better?
Adapalene is gentler, less irritating, and OTC. Tretinoin is more potent and requires prescription. Start with adapalene—upgrade to tretinoin only if needed and with derm guidance.
How long until results show?
Visible improvement: 8–12 weeks. Full results: 3–6 months of consistent use.
Can I use adapalene while pregnant?
No. Retinoids are not considered safe during pregnancy. Discontinue and consult your doctor.
The Bottom Line
Adapalene works—but it requires patience and proper use.
- Pea-size only
- Buffer at first
- Expect a purge (and push through it)
- Know the difference between purge and damage
- Give it 8–12 weeks
Most texture issues improve significantly with adapalene. But the people who see results are the ones who didn’t quit at week 4.
Track your progress: Get the app and see your skin improve week by week.
This content is for informational purposes only and does not replace professional medical advice. Consult a board-certified dermatologist for personalized treatment recommendations.
