Your skin feels like sandpaper. Tiny bumps you can feel but barely see—until they catch the light (especially that unforgiving phone flash). You’ve tried exfoliating. You’ve tried drying them out. Nothing works.
These are closed comedones: clogged pores trapped under the skin’s surface. And the frustrating truth is that most “acne” advice doesn’t work for them.
This is part of our complete guide to Skin Texture & Visible Pores.
What Closed Comedones Are (and Aren’t)
What They Are
Closed comedones are clogged pores with a layer of skin covering them. Unlike blackheads (open comedones), they don’t have an opening at the surface. That’s why they look like flesh-colored bumps rather than visible dots.
They form when:
- Dead skin cells don’t shed properly
- Sebum (oil) gets trapped underneath
- The pore opening is sealed over
What They’re Not
- Not pustules: No pus or white head
- Not cystic acne: Not deep or painful
- Not blackheads: No visible dark center
- Not dry skin texture: Moisturizing alone won’t fix them
Common Triggers (The “Why Is This Happening?” List)
Closed comedones often have identifiable causes. Review this list honestly:
1. Occlusive Products
Heavy creams, oils, and balms can trap debris in pores. Common culprits:
- Thick moisturizers with mineral oil or petrolatum (on acne-prone skin)
- Silicone-heavy primers and foundations
- “Slugging” with Vaseline (controversial—works for some, clogs others)
- Coconut oil (highly comedogenic for most)
2. Hair Products
Oils, leave-in conditioners, pomades, and hairsprays migrate to your face—especially forehead and temples.”Hairline acne” is often closed comedones from product transfer.
3. Friction and Pressure
- Mask wearing (maskne peaked during COVID and hasn’t fully left)
- Helmets, headbands, straps
- Resting your chin on your hands
- Pillowcase friction (especially if not changed weekly)
4. Over-Exfoliation Rebound
Counterintuitively, too much exfoliation can cause closed comedones. When you strip your skin, it produces more oil and dead cells to compensate. The rebound clogs pores.
5. Product Layering (Too Much at Once)
Layering 6+ products nightly creates occlusion and ingredient interactions. Simpler routines often produce better results.
The “Don’t Add 5 Actives” Rule
This is the #1 mistake people make when trying to fix closed comedones.
What happens:
- You notice bumps
- You panic-buy BHA, AHA, retinoid, niacinamide, clay masks, and a “pore-clearing” toner
- You use all of them at once
- Your skin barrier collapses
- Texture gets worse, not better
What to do instead:
- Pick ONE exfoliating active
- Use it consistently for 8+ weeks
- Resist the urge to add more products
- Simplify everything else
The 8-Week Adapalene Plan
Adapalene (Differin) is the gold standard for closed comedones. It’s an OTC retinoid that normalizes skin cell turnover, preventing cells from clumping and clogging pores.
Weekly Breakdown
Weeks 1–2: Introduction
- Apply adapalene every other night
- Use only a pea-sized amount for entire face
- Apply AFTER moisturizer (buffering reduces irritation)
- Avoid eyes, corners of nose, corners of mouth
Weeks 3–4: Building Tolerance
- If tolerated, move to nightly application
- Still buffer with moisturizer if irritated
- Expect some dryness and flaking
Weeks 5–8: The Purge Phase
- This is where many people quit (don’t)
- Existing clogs come to the surface faster
- You may see more bumps before seeing fewer
- This is normal and temporary
Weeks 8–12: Results
- Purging should slow down
- New comedones stop forming at the same rate
- Overall texture improvement visible
For the full guide: Adapalene (Differin) Starter Guide
The Simple Routine (During Treatment)
Keep everything else boring while your adapalene does the work.
AM
- Gentle cleanser — Non-foaming or mild foaming
- Lightweight moisturizer — Non-comedogenic, simple formula
- Sunscreen SPF 30+ — Essential. Retinoids increase sun sensitivity.
PM
- Gentle cleanser — Same as AM
- Moisturizer — Apply and wait 10–15 minutes
- Adapalene — Pea-sized amount, avoid sensitive areas
What to Avoid During Treatment
- Other exfoliating acids (BHA, AHA)
- Vitamin C (can be irritating with retinoid)
- Physical scrubs
- Benzoyl peroxide (can inactivate adapalene if applied at same time)
- Alcohol-based toners
What If It’s Not Working?
After 8 Weeks with No Improvement
-
Check your products: Are you using comedogenic moisturizers/sunscreens? Patch test by stopping one product at a time.
-
Check your application: Pea-sized amount. Let it absorb. Not too thick.
-
Check your triggers: Still using hair products that hit your face? Mask wearing without cleansing after?
-
Consider stepping up: Prescription tretinoin is stronger but requires derm supervision.
If Adapalene Causes Severe Irritation
Barrier damage is possible if you overdo it. Signs:
- Burning and stinging with all products
- Red, shiny, tight skin
- Getting worse, not better
If this happens: Stop adapalene. Do a 7-day barrier reset. Then restart at 2x/week with buffer.
FAQ
Why do I get closed comedones only on my forehead?
Usually hair products. Try switching to products that don’t touch your face, or cleanse your forehead specifically after styling.
Can I extract closed comedones?
Not safely at home. They’re under the skin, so squeezing forces contents down rather than out. This causes inflammation and potential scarring.
How is this different from fungal acne?
Fungal acne (malassezia folliculitis) looks similar but is caused by yeast overgrowth. It’s often itchy and doesn’t respond to adapalene. If antifungal treatments (ketoconazole shampoo as a mask) help, it might be fungal.
Will closed comedones leave scars?
Usually not if left alone. Picking and squeezing cause scarring, not the comedones themselves.
The Bottom Line
Closed comedones are stubborn—but fixable. The key is:
- Identify and remove triggers
- Use adapalene consistently (8+ weeks)
- Keep everything else simple
- Resist the urge to add more products
Patience > aggression.
Need a personalized routine? Get skncoach — we’ll help you simplify and track progress.
This content is for informational purposes only and does not replace professional medical advice. Consult a board-certified dermatologist for personalized treatment recommendations.
