Malassezia guide

Fungal Acne (Malassezia Folliculitis)

If you keep getting small, uniform bumps (often itchy) that don’t respond to typical acne routines, you might be dealing with malassezia folliculitis — not “classic” acne. Use this hub to identify the pattern, avoid common traps, and follow a gentle starter routine.

Evidence-first + practical Product + routine clarity Barrier-safe approach

Find your path

Answer a few quick questions to get the most relevant guide.

Question 1 of 3

What best describes your bumps?

Question 2 of 3

What triggers or worsens your bumps?

Start by confirming the pattern

Misdiagnosis is the #1 reason people stay stuck. Check the comparison table below — fungal acne has uniform bumps, is often itchy, and doesn't respond to typical acne treatments. If it matches, scroll to the malassezia-safe routine.

See comparison table

This looks more like regular acne

Mixed-size bumps (blackheads, whiteheads, cysts) without itch usually point to bacterial acne, not fungal. However, you can have both. If typical acne treatment isn't working after 6-8 weeks, consider the fungal angle.

Start with adapalene guide

Fix your barrier first

If everything stings, your skin barrier is likely compromised. Antifungal treatments on a damaged barrier will make things worse. Do a 1-2 week barrier reset with ultra-gentle basics, then reassess.

Start barrier reset

Post-antibiotic fungal flare

Antibiotics can kill bacteria that normally keep malassezia yeast in check, allowing it to overgrow. This is a classic fungal acne trigger. A short course of antifungal treatment often helps — see the routine below and consider confirming with a derm.

Go to treatment routine

Fungal Acne vs Regular Acne

Understanding the differences helps you pick the right treatment approach.

Aspect Fungal Acne Regular Acne
Appearance Small, uniform bumps (1-2mm), all similar size Mixed: blackheads, whiteheads, cysts, varying sizes
Itch Usually itchy (~70% of cases) Rarely itchy (can be painful)
Location Forehead, hairline, chest, back, shoulders T-zone, chin, cheeks, jawline
Cause Yeast overgrowth in follicles Bacteria + clogged pores + oil
Triggers Sweat, humidity, antibiotics, occlusives Hormones, stress, diet, comedogenic products
Treatment Antifungals (ketoconazole, etc.) Benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, retinoids

All Guides & Resources

Start with these today, then follow the fungal acne cluster as it ships.

Fungal acne cluster (shipping next)

Dedicated deep-dive guides coming soon.

Coming soon

Fungal acne vs acne: how to tell

Visual guide and self-check to differentiate between the two.

Coming soon

Fungal acne routine (AM/PM)

Step-by-step malassezia-safe routine for day and night.

Coming soon

Fungal acne-safe moisturizers

Product picks that won't feed yeast or trigger flares.

Coming soon

Ketoconazole face wash: basics + safety

How to use antifungal shampoo on your face without irritation.

Coming soon

Fungal acne-safe sunscreens

SPF options that protect without triggering breakouts.

Coming soon

Why fungal acne keeps coming back

Prevention strategies and maintenance routines.

Related from Other Hubs

Overlapping topics that may help your situation.

Starter routine

A malassezia-safe routine: keep it simple until bumps clear.

AM routine

  1. Gentle cleanse — sulfate-free, no oils (or water rinse)
  2. Malassezia-safe moisturizer — look for: squalane, glycerin, hyaluronic acid. Avoid: fatty acids (C11-C24), oils, esters, polysorbates
  3. Mineral sunscreen — zinc oxide based, avoid chemical filters with fatty alcohols

PM routine

  1. Gentle cleanse — remove sweat/sunscreen (micellar water if needed)
  2. Same moisturizer — or a lightweight gel if oily
  3. Optional: Antifungal — see treatment section below

Antifungal Treatment Options

If the basic routine isn't enough, consider adding antifungal actives.

OTC approach

  1. Ketoconazole 1-2% shampoo — Use as face mask 2-3x/week. Apply to damp skin, leave 2-5 min, rinse. Can be drying.
  2. Zinc pyrithione soap — Daily body wash for chest/back bumps. Leave on 1-2 min before rinsing.
  3. Sulfur-based wash — Alternative if keto irritates. 2-3x/week max.

Rx options (see a derm)

  1. Ketoconazole 2% cream — Apply to affected areas 1-2x daily for 2-4 weeks.
  2. Oral fluconazole — For stubborn or widespread cases. Usually 1-2 week course.
  3. Itraconazole — Alternative oral option if fluconazole doesn't work.

Important: Don't stop treatment too early. Continue for 1-2 weeks after bumps clear to prevent recurrence. If no improvement after 3 weeks, reconsider the diagnosis.

Ingredient Cheat Sheet

Malassezia yeast feeds on certain fatty acids and esters. Here's what to look for and avoid.

✓ Safe ingredients

Squalane (not squalene), glycerin, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, urea, aloe vera, zinc oxide, sulfur, salicylic acid, azelaic acid. MCT oil (caprylic/capric triglyceride) is also generally safe.

⚠ Use with caution

Fatty alcohols (cetyl, cetearyl, stearyl) — some tolerate, others flare. Dimethicone — usually fine but can trap problem ingredients. Fermented ingredients — galactomyces, saccharomyces may trigger some.

✗ Avoid these

Oils: coconut, olive, jojoba, argan, rosehip (most plant oils). Fatty acids: oleic, lauric, palmitic, stearic, linoleic. Esters: isopropyl myristate/palmitate, glyceryl stearate. Polysorbates: polysorbate 20/60/80.

Pro tip: Use tools like Folliculitis Scout or Sezia to check if a product's ingredient list is malassezia-safe.

What not to do

These are the traps that make bumps persist for months.

Don’t “peel” it away

Scrubs + strong acid stacks can inflame the barrier and worsen texture.

Don’t add 5 new products

Change one variable at a time so you can actually learn what works for you.

Don’t ignore sweat + friction

Heat, helmets, tight caps, and workouts can aggravate follicle-based bumps.

When to see a derm

The fastest progress is correct diagnosis + the right prescription when needed.

Confirm the diagnosis

If bumps are persistent, itchy, and don’t respond to acne care, get checked for lookalikes.

Escalate if worsening

Rapid spreading, pain, swelling, pus, or systemic symptoms need clinician attention.

Be extra careful if pregnant

Some treatments aren’t pregnancy-safe. Always confirm with your healthcare provider.

Common questions

Quick answers that keep your routine simple and safe.

Is fungal acne actually acne?

The nickname “fungal acne” is common, but malassezia folliculitis is different from acne vulgaris. It’s driven by yeast in hair follicles, so classic acne-only strategies may not work (and can irritate you). The right plan depends on confirming the pattern and keeping your barrier calm.

Can I still use retinoids or acids?

Often yes — but timing matters. If you’re inflamed, itchy, or stinging, pause extra actives and stabilize your basics first. Once the skin feels calm for ~2 weeks, reintroduce one active at a time, slowly.

What's the fastest "first step"?

Start with the "how to tell" guide and a simplified routine. If you do choose an antifungal approach, keep everything else gentle and consistent so you can actually evaluate what's helping.

What triggers fungal acne flares?

Common triggers include excessive sweating, hot/humid weather, tight clothing or helmets, antibiotics that disrupt skin flora, and heavy occlusive skincare products. Knowing your personal triggers helps prevent recurrence.

How long does it take to clear fungal acne?

With proper antifungal treatment, you'll typically see improvement within 1-2 weeks. Complete clearing usually takes 3-4 weeks. If you don't see any change after 2-3 weeks, reconsider whether fungal acne is actually the issue.

Why does my fungal acne keep coming back?

Malassezia yeast naturally lives on skin — you can't eliminate it completely. Recurrence happens when you stop treatment too early, return to trigger products, or don't cleanse after sweating. Maintenance routines (weekly antifungal wash) help prevent flare-ups.

Can I use makeup with fungal acne?

Yes, but be selective. Avoid foundations with oils that feed yeast — particularly oleic acid and lauric acid. Mineral makeup and silicone-based products (dimethicone) are often safer choices. Always check ingredient lists against malassezia-safe databases.

Is ketoconazole shampoo safe on my face?

Ketoconazole shampoo (1-2%) used as a face wash 2-3x weekly is generally well-tolerated. Apply to damp skin, leave on 1-2 minutes, then rinse thoroughly. It may cause dryness, so follow with a simple moisturizer. Reduce frequency once cleared.

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Get a routine that fits your skin

If you’re stuck between “acne” and “something else,” a scan-based routine can help you choose a safer starting point and avoid irritation loops.