You see texture. Dips. Shadows in certain lighting. Is it just enlarged pores? Or is it actual scarring from past acne?
This distinction matters because they respond to completely different treatments. Pores can be managed with topicals; true scars need procedures.
Before you spend money on either, let’s figure out what you’re looking at.
This is part of our complete guide to Skin Texture & Visible Pores.
The Key Difference
Pores
- What they are: The openings of hair follicles and sebaceous glands. Everyone has them. Larger and more visible in oily zones.
- Can be improved with: BHA, retinoids, consistent care
- Can be “fixed”?: Minimized in appearance, never eliminated
Acne Scars
- What they are: Permanent textural changes from deep inflammation during acne. The skin’s collagen structure has been damaged.
- Can be improved with: In-clinic procedures (subcision, microneedling, laser)
- Can be “fixed”?: Improved 40–80% with procedures, rarely “perfect”
The Stretch Test
This is your first and most useful test.
How to do it:
- Find good lighting (natural window light is best)
- Gently stretch the skin in the area of concern
- Watch what happens to the texture
Results:
| What Happens | What It Means |
|---|---|
| Texture flattens or disappears | Likely pores or very shallow rolling scars |
| Texture becomes shallower | Possibly rolling scars with tethering |
| Texture stays the same | Likely boxcar or icepick scars |
| Texture becomes MORE prominent | Could be boxcar scars with defined edges |
Why this works: Stretching the skin temporarily pulls the surface taut. Pores (which are surface-level openings) flatten out. Deep scars with structural damage don’t change because the damage is below the surface.
The Lighting Test
Different lighting angles reveal different types of texture.
Direct Overhead Light
- Harsh, unflattering for everyone
- Exaggerates ALL texture
- Not useful for diagnosis—everything looks worse
Window Light (Diffused, from the Side)
- Most accurate representation of how your skin looks in real life
- Shows real depth vs. surface appearance
- Use this for tracking progress photos
Catch Light at an Angle (45°)
- Turn your head and let light hit from the side at 45 degrees
- True scars cast shadows as light changes angle
- Pores don’t cast shadows—they’re just visible openings
The shadow test:
- If you see shadows moving as you turn your head under angled light = likely scarring
- If texture is visible but flat (no shadow changes) = likely pores or surface texture
Phone Flash
- Worst possible lighting for skin
- Exaggerates texture dramatically
- Don’t use phone flash selfies to judge your skin—they make everyone look textured
Types of Scarring (If It’s Not Pores)
If your tests suggest actual scarring, here’s what you might be dealing with:
Rolling Scars
- Wave-like, undulating depressions
- Soft edges, no sharp borders
- Flatten somewhat with the stretch test
- Caused by fibrous bands pulling skin down (“tethering”)
- Best treated with: Subcision first, then microneedling/laser
Boxcar Scars
- Defined, sharp edges
- Rectangular or oval craters
- Don’t flatten with stretch test
- Results from collagen destruction during deep inflammation
- Best treated with: TCA CROSS (if narrow), laser/RF (if wider)
Icepick Scars
- Tiny, deep, V-shaped holes
- Very narrow openings
- Don’t change with any test—they’re deep pits
- Result from severe inflammation destroying tissue deeply
- Best treated with: TCA CROSS, punch excision
Deep dives:
Why Skincare Can’t “Fill” Scars
Here’s the uncomfortable truth: topical products cannot fill structural dents in your skin.
What Skincare CAN Do:
- Improve surface texture
- Fade marks (PIH/PIE)
- Prevent new breakouts that could cause more scars
- Support skin health and healing after procedures
- Make shallow texture less noticeable
What Skincare CANNOT Do:
- Rebuild collagen in deep scars
- Release fibrous tethering
- Fill icepick scars
- Replace the need for in-clinic procedures
The marketing problem: Products claim to “reduce the appearance of scars” because improving surface quality makes everything look slightly better. But if you have true boxcar or icepick scars, serums won’t fix them.
When to Consider Procedures
The stretch test and lighting tests can help you decide:
Definitely Consider Procedures If:
- Texture creates visible shadows at multiple angles
- Stretch test shows scars that don’t flatten
- You’ve been consistent with good skincare for 6+ months and deep texture remains
- You have a history of deep, cystic, or nodular acne
Might Not Need Procedures If:
- Texture flattens entirely with stretch test
- What you see is mainly visible pores (uniform dots, no shadows)
- Your concern is surface-level dryness or barrier texture
- You haven’t tried consistent actives (BHA, retinoids) yet
Procedure Options (Overview)
If you determine you have true scarring:
For Rolling Scars (Tethered)
- Subcision: Releases fibrous bands under the skin
- Then microneedling/laser: Stimulates collagen after tethering is released
For Boxcar Scars
- TCA CROSS for narrow ones
- RF microneedling or fractional laser for wider ones
For Icepick Scars
- TCA CROSS
- Punch excision (removes scar, sutures closed)
Full treatment guide: Acne Scars & Pits: What Works
FAQ
My texture looks way worse in selfies. Is it actually that bad?
No. Phone cameras (especially front-facing) distort faces and lighting. Assess your skin in window light, not selfie camera.
Can I have both enlarged pores AND scarring?
Yes—very common. The areas around scars may also have more visible pores. Addressing one doesn’t automatically fix the other.
If I’m not sure, what should I do?
See a dermatologist. They can examine skin under proper lighting and sometimes use devices to assess texture depth. Getting a professional opinion before spending on procedures is smart.
Can scars get worse over time?
Typically no, unless you’re still getting active, deep acne that’s causing new damage. Old scars don’t keep sinking—but they don’t self-heal either.
How much can procedures actually improve scars?
Realistic expectation: 40–80% improvement depending on scar type and number of sessions. “Perfect” skin is rarely the outcome, but visible, meaningful improvement is achievable.
The Bottom Line
Pores: Surface-level, flatten with stretching, manageable with topicals.
Scars: Deeper structural damage, cast shadows, need procedures.
Knowing which you’re dealing with saves you from wasting money on products that can’t help—or avoiding procedures that could.
Track your texture with consistent lighting: Use skin scan to get comparable photos week to week.
This content is for informational purposes only and does not replace professional medical advice. Consult a board-certified dermatologist for personalized treatment recommendations.
