Skin Actives

Retinoids: Tretinoin, Adapalene & Retinol

Q: What's the difference between tretinoin, adapalene, and retinol?

Tretinoin is prescription-strength retinoic acid—the strongest and most effective, but most irritating. Adapalene is prescription (Differin) or OTC, gentler with anti-inflammatory properties, ideal for acne. Retinol is OTC, converts to retinoic acid in skin, gentlest but least potent. Start with adapalene or low-strength retinol if new to retinoids.

Q: How do I know if I'm purging or breaking out from retinoids?

Purging happens in your usual breakout zones and resolves within 6-8 weeks—it's existing congestion surfacing faster. A breakout from the product appears in new areas, persists beyond 8 weeks, or gets progressively worse. If you're breaking out where you never did before, it's likely irritation or a reaction, not purging.

Q: What is the retinoid sandwich method?

The sandwich method buffers retinoid irritation: apply moisturizer first, wait 5-10 minutes, apply your retinoid, then optionally seal with another thin layer of moisturizer. This reduces irritation while your skin builds tolerance. You can phase out buffering as your skin adjusts over weeks.

Q: How often should I use retinoids when starting out?

Start with 2 nights per week for the first 2 weeks. If tolerated, increase to every other night for 2-4 weeks. Then try 2 nights on, 1 night off. Build up to nightly use over 2-3 months. Going slow prevents the irritation spiral that makes people quit.

Retinoids are the most effective topicals for acne, anti-aging, and skin renewal—but starting wrong leads to irritation spirals. This guide helps you choose the right retinoid, start slow, manage side effects, and actually stick with it.

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What's your retinoid situation?

Answer a quick question to find the right guide for where you are.

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Where are you in your retinoid journey?

Start with the Basics

New to retinoids? Start with adapalene (Differin)—it's effective, OTC, and less irritating than tretinoin. Begin 2 nights/week, use the sandwich method, and build up slowly over 2-3 months. Most irritation happens from going too fast.

Read: How to Start Adapalene

Barrier Repair Mode

Irritation usually means you went too strong or too fast. If you're experiencing burning, stinging, or raw skin, your barrier needs a break. Pause the retinoid, repair for 7-14 days, then restart slowly with buffering.

Read: Barrier Repair Protocol

Purging vs. Breakout

Purging happens in your normal breakout zones and clears within 6-8 weeks. If breakouts are in new areas, getting worse after 8 weeks, or causing painful cysts, it's a reaction—not purging. May need to adjust or discontinue.

Read: Purging vs Breakout

One Active at a Time

Wait until your skin fully tolerates your retinoid (no irritation for 4+ weeks) before adding acids or vitamin C. Use them on alternate nights, never the same night. AHAs and BHAs are safest in the AM when retinoid is used at night.

Read: Retinol + Acids Guide

All Guides & Resources

Everything you need to master retinoids.

Cheat Sheets & Downloads

Free infographics to save, print, or share

Retinoid Starter Calendar

4-week escalation guide with schedules, application tips, and do's & don'ts

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Skincare routine order with retinoid placement

AM/PM Routine Order

Where retinoids fit in your routine—plus 6 more infographics

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Starter routine

How to structure your routine around retinoid use.

Retinoid Nights

1 Cleanse — gentle, non-stripping cleanser
2 Wait 10-15 min — let skin fully dry
3 Moisturizer — optional buffer layer first
4 Retinoid — pea-sized amount, avoid eyes
5 Seal — occlusive or moisturizer on top

Off-Nights & AM

1 Gentle cleanse — no actives, no exfoliation
2 Hydrating serum — hyaluronic acid, niacinamide OK
3 Moisturizer — focus on barrier repair
4 Sunscreen (AM) — SPF 30+ daily, non-negotiable

Retinoid Cheat Sheet

Comparing different retinoid types and strengths.

Tretinoin (Retin-A)

Prescription only. Strongest, most irritating. Gold standard for anti-aging + acne. Start 0.025%, build to 0.05%.

Tazarotene

Prescription only. Very strong, more irritating than tretinoin. Often used for psoriasis and stubborn acne.

Adapalene (Differin)

OTC or Rx. Gentler, anti-inflammatory. Best for acne beginners. Less irritation than tretinoin, still effective.

Retinaldehyde

OTC. One step from retinoic acid. More effective than retinol, less irritating than tret. Hard to find.

Retinol

OTC. Converts to retinoic acid in skin. Gentlest but weakest. Good for anti-aging beginners or sensitive skin.

Retinyl Palmitate

OTC. Very weak, mostly in anti-aging creams. Limited evidence. Not recommended if you want real results.

What not to do

These mistakes cause the irritation spirals that make people quit.

Starting too strong or too often. Daily use from day one wrecks your barrier. Start 2x/week and build up over 2-3 months.

Applying to damp skin. Water increases penetration and irritation. Wait 10-15 minutes after cleansing for skin to fully dry.

Skipping sunscreen. Retinoids increase photosensitivity. Daily SPF 30+ is mandatory—even on cloudy days or indoors.

Mixing with harsh actives. No AHAs, BHAs, or vitamin C on the same night as your retinoid. Use them on alternate nights only.

Applying near eyes and mouth. Thin skin in these areas is easily damaged. Keep a 1cm buffer zone around eyes, lips, and nostrils.

Pushing through severe irritation. Mild flaking is normal; burning, raw skin, or persistent redness means back off immediately.

When to see a dermatologist

Some situations need professional guidance.

Consider seeing a derm if:

You want prescription-strength tretinoin or tazarotene
You're experiencing severe or persistent irritation despite proper use
Breakouts are getting worse after 8+ weeks (may not be purging)
You have rosacea, eczema, or other skin conditions and want to try retinoids safely
You're pregnant, breastfeeding, or planning pregnancy (retinoids are contraindicated)
You want to combine retinoids with other prescription treatments

Common questions

Quick answers to the most-asked retinoid questions.

What's the difference between tretinoin, adapalene, and retinol?

Tretinoin is prescription-strength retinoic acid—the strongest and most effective, but most irritating. Adapalene (Differin) is available OTC or Rx, gentler with anti-inflammatory properties, ideal for acne. Retinol is OTC, converts to retinoic acid in skin, gentlest but least potent. Start with adapalene or low-strength retinol if new to retinoids.

How do I know if I'm purging or breaking out from retinoids?

Purging happens in your usual breakout zones and resolves within 6-8 weeks—it's existing congestion surfacing faster. A breakout from the product appears in new areas, persists beyond 8 weeks, or gets progressively worse. If you're breaking out where you never did before, it's likely irritation or a reaction, not purging.

What is the retinoid sandwich method?

The sandwich method buffers retinoid irritation: apply moisturizer first, wait 5-10 minutes, apply your retinoid, then optionally seal with another thin layer of moisturizer. This reduces irritation while your skin builds tolerance. You can phase out buffering as your skin adjusts over weeks to months.

How often should I use retinoids when starting out?

Start with 2 nights per week for the first 2 weeks. If tolerated (minimal redness, no burning), increase to every other night for 2-4 weeks. Then try 2 nights on, 1 night off. Build up to nightly use over 2-3 months. Going slow prevents the irritation spiral that makes people quit.

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